Painting for beginners....or those who think they hate to paint....

Sooner or later in a person's life, they will have to pick up a paintbrush.  Well, maybe not someone like Paris Hilton or Donald Trump, but the rest of the world will inevitably have to paint something at some point.  It might be a wall, ceiling or maybe even a bookshelf.  So before you find yourself cleaning grout with a toothpick just because it delays painting, I'm going to show you how easy this process can be.

Painting is honestly not a difficult job.  There are exceptions as there are to anything, but the vast majority of painting projects are super easy, not messy and leave you with a feeling of accomplishment when it's all done.

There are two major steps in painting that when ignored, rushed or altered will lead to a ruined, messy and horrible finished product.  These steps are:  1. choosing the paint (this step includes paint finish, color, paint type, paint brand and light reflective quality of the paint) and 2. prepping the area for paint.

You can be spot on with your paint choice but skip the prep step and wind up with a big, bad, ugly mess.  You can prep to perfection but compromise on the paint selection and again - big, bad, ugly mess.

I am one of those annoying folks who loves to paint.  Always have.  I'll paint anything and I'll try just about any color.  When I find myself in any store that sells paint, I immediately head to the  "oops" paint section to see what they've got that I might possibly want.  I will also say that I'm pretty darned good with a brush.  But that wasn't always the case - not at all.  I became a good painter when I discovered that to fudge on steps 1 and/or 2 inevitably led to disaster and the expense of hiring a professional to come in and clean up my mess.

I'm going to do this post with painting a room in mind.  I'll get to painting furniture in a later post.

Step 1:  The Paint

You need to be familiar with the room you intend to paint.  How much light does it get at different times of the day?  How bright is that light?  Maybe you get full sunlight in the mornings but diffused light in the afternoon.  Or maybe you have large trees outside your windows and you only get diffused light at best at any time of the day.

There are paint brands on the market today that will tell you what the "light reflective value" is of any shade of their paint.  This is so helpful.  But to be honest, it's pretty easy to figure out on your own.  The lighter the color, the more light the paint will reflect.  The darker the color the more light the paint will absorb.

The current fad in decorating is to say that dark walls don't make a room appear smaller than it is.  I don't know how these designers came up with that idea.  It's pretty much science that the more reflective value a paint has - the larger the space will appear.  Seems like old fashion common sense to me.  However, you should be aware that not all white's reflect the most light.  It all depends upon the sheen and any undertones.

At night you need to be mindful of shadow areas.  Those are the areas within your room that are not completely lit by the lamps that you normally turn on at night.  If you normally don't use the over head light, then don't base your opinion on what the room looks like with it on.  These shadow areas can dramatically change the color of your wall paint.  So if you love the color everywhere else but hate it in the shadow area, your best bet is either pick another color or fill that shadow area with a light cast from a lamp or mirror.  If that's not an option try camouflaging the area with a tall side chair or even a tall plant or statue.

Other things to consider are trim color, ceiling color, artwork, furniture.  Anything that is going to be up against the wall paint color needs to be considered because that color will shadow onto your wall color and the results might not be super attractive.  That would include kitchen cabinetry (if you're painting the kitchen).  Below is a sample area that I did using a light yellow that has a very subtle green undertone.  I painted this next to my built-in china hutch in my breakfast room.  You can see how beige it looks next to the wood.

Next I'll show you another sample area that I did using the same paint but next to white trim.  The difference is pretty amazing.  They really don't even look as if they came from the same can of paint - but they did.

  In the store, beneath their fluorescent lights and without anything else next to it, a paint color will look one way but once you get it home under your lighting and next to your possessions, it can take on a very different hue.  I always recommend buying a sample jar of paint and then painting a square foot section in several areas of your room.  Then live with that for a couple of days.  You will then be able to see how it looks at all times of the day and night.  You will be able to decide if it looks good next to your sofa or against your favorite piece of art.  If it passes this test - head back to the store and buy as much as you need.  If not, time to buy another sample.  This step is so critical.  I have jumped head first into painting a room without painting sample areas and have lived to regret it - and repeat the process in order to correct my mistake.  This step is the main reason folks paint their walls either white or beige.  They think with those two colors, who can go wrong? However, what they don't seem to understand is the simple fact that white and beige can change hues dependant upon lighting and what's next to them as well as any other color can.  If you put white next to another shade of white, you get a dingy white.  In the right (or wrong) lighting conditions beige can appear to be just an off white that has aged really badly.  Ever walk into a room and while your eyes don't see any dirt, dust or clutter - it just doesn't feel clean??  My bet is that room was painted either white or beige and the hues had changed due to the colors touching them or reflecting off them.

Nearly every paint company has a different word for shiny or not shiny.  I leave all that up to the person in the store mixing my paint.  I have decided keeping up with that information is just something that my brain doesn't need to retain.  I tell the guy (or gal) I want shiny or I don't want shiny and he/she takes it from there.  You need to also let them know if this is going to be used in the bathroom or kitchen because you will want scrubbable & moisture tolerant paint in those areas.  Trim is another area that requires a tough paint finish that you can scrub without it coming off.

Brand.  Where to begin?  There are literally hundreds of paint brands on the market these days.  This is the area that folks either save money or waste money.  Please believe me when I tell you that just because it's cheaper, it doesn't mean you're going to save money by buying it.  I've said it once and I'll say it again.  In this world you usually get what you pay for.  Cheap paint usually equals color that fades, scuffs up easily or even thins over time leaving areas where the sheetrock is obviously peeking through the paint.  Cheap paint comes off your wall with the slightest amount of scrubbing.  If you bump your sofa onto a wall that has cheap paint you can rest assured there will be a large black scuff mark.  It also takes 3 times the amount of paint to get a good solid coverage so while the cheap paint may have cost $10 a gallon you wound up having to use 3 gallons and 3 times the work to get a good coverage so why not spring for a $30 per gallon paint and only have to paint it once??  Cheap paint simply will not last long.  If you use the $10 per gallon paint within 6 months to a year (max) you will have to repaint your room while the $30 per gallon paint should last 2 to 3 years or even longer if you wipe it down regularly.

Step 2:  The Prep Work

Remember this - paint will not stick in areas that have dust, dirt or any kind of oily residue on them.  It will look like it painted over those things really well - at first.  As the paint begins to dry it becomes heavier.  At this point, the dust or dirt will pull away from the wall due to the weight of the paint on top of it and it will either form a bubble or fall away completely leaving an unpainted spot.  The paint will simply slide off the oily residue spots.  Again, leaving an unpainted spot on your wall.  Also, grime left on the wall before painting, will change the color of your paint in that area.  So first thing to do is to clean your walls before you paint them.  You don't have to break out the scrub brush, rubber gloves and bleach water.  Just take a broom or dust mop and go over every inch of your wall beginning with the top and working your way down.  Once you've done that, look closely at your wall.  If you see a dirty spot that your broom didn't take care of, use a scrub sponge to get rid of it.  Tip: never use an SOS pad or any other type of metal scrubber because the metal will flake off and embed in your sheetrock or plaster leaving that area a different hue than the rest of your wall once painted.

While you are cleaning your walls, look for any nails that are backing out of the wall, holes, bowing or any other issue that will ruin your finished product.  Take care of those now rather than later.

Once your wall is clean and any repairs needed are done, it's time to tape it off.  I had a professional painter once tell me that the difference between a professional and an ameteur is that a professional never tapes - he doesn't have to.  Well, I must be a quasi-professional because sometimes I tape and other times I don't.  It all depends on what I'm painting and how calm I am that day.  The whole purpose of taping is to prevent the paint from leaving the intended area and getting into areas that you don't want painted that particular color.  It is also a way to get a straight edge quickly.  I always tape any glass areas and/or hardware such as hinges, door knobs, electric outlets, etc.  Not because I'm a bad painter but because as the day wears on and I become more tired, I tend to slop the paint on a bit willy nilly. Accidental splashing and/or dripping can, and most often does, occur.  This causes me more work.

The picture above is a perfect taping job.  Note that tape is also covering your electrical outlets and light switches.  This is very important.  Nothing says bad job like paint on your outlet or light switch.  Remove the covers and tape up the rest.  Next photo will show you how to tape windows in preparation for painting.

Always lay something on your floor.  My personal favorite is a canvas tarp.  The reason they're my favorite is because not only do they not slip beneath your feet but you can wash them and reuse them many many times. You can also use plastic garbage bags or the plastic painter's sheets.  I like to tape it to the floor so it doesn't move around and to prevent any spilled paint from slipping beneath it.

When to take your tape off?  I've heard as many folks say to wait until the paints dry as I have those who say take it off while the paint is still wet.  I imagine this is a matter of personal preference.  My preference is to take the tape off before the paint dries but not while it is still super wet.  I have tried it both ways and my way makes for less peeling of the paint.  Sometimes when you wait until the paint has cured (meaning once it's completely dry), when you remove the tape, the tape will peel away some of your paint.  I have never had this happen when I take it down wet.  Either way you always want to go slow and pull the tape at an angle.  It only takes a matter of minutes before you have this technique mastered.

The picture below shows crooked lines.  This was not caused by the removal of the tape but rather the bad application of the tape.  Always lay your tape on the wall, go over the edge closest to where you're going to paint with a flat edge such as a spackle applicator.  This will push out any air bubbles and make sure your tape is properly adhered to your wall.  Then taking a lightly loaded paint brush (not a roller), brush paint all along this edge.  Now when you roll close to the tape, no excess paint will leak under your tape.

Below is what happens when you pull the tape off too quickly, not at an angle or after it's completely dried.  Not attractive.

If your walls are new sheetrock or if they haven't been painted in a long time, it's always recommended to use a good primer before painting.  Your finished product will last longer and look better.  Always get your primer tinted the same color as your chosen wall color.  This will allow you to skip a second coat in most instances.

Now, where to begin painting?  Again, this is a matter of personal preference.  I prefer to frame the area I intend to paint so I cut first.  Cutting is where you take your brush and paint all the edges first.  Then I use my roller to fill in the middle.  Once that's done, I go back over my cutting again to make sure it all blends in well.

Last, let me warn you that just because you put a ton of paint on your brush or roller, it doesn't mean that you will finish the job faster.  What it usually means is that your paint will glob leaving bubbles and it will drip leaving drip marks and messes on the floor.  You want your brush or roller to have enough paint to do the job but you don't want it to be dripping full of paint.  It's far better to do 2 coats than 1 coat that bubbles.

See the picture below as an example of what happens when you overload your paint brush or roller.

Below is an example of getting in a hurry and applying way too much paint in one particular area.  Always allow the first coat to dry before adding a second coat or bubbles may be your result.  If you get bubbles, use a sanding sponge and lightly sand the affected area until you have removed all the bubbles.  Then wipe the area with a dry cloth and repaint.  It's your only option.

Dry time versus cure time?  Dry time is the amount of time it takes for the paint to be dry to the touch.  Meaning it's not sticky and no paint comes off on your fingers when you lightly touch the wall.  This means it's dry enough for a second coat.  It does not mean that the paint has cured.  The amount of time it takes for the paint to dry varies greatly with your physical location and the weather at that particular moment at your location.  In Arizona you can do the second coat as soon as you've finished the first one.  In Alabama, you need to wait at least a couple of hours before testing dryness.  Alabama has far more humidity than Arizona so paint takes longer to dry.  Also, if it's humid outside or raining, allow extra dry time.  If the temperatures are below 50 - allow for extra dry time.

The paint is cured once it has had ample time to dry all the way through.  Every manufacturer will have a slightly different cure time.  Usually the time is written on the can but if not, ask the person assisting you in the paint center.  They should be able to help you with this.  My personal rule of thumb is 2 days.  I don't put anything up against the painted area or hang any artwork for a full 2 days - 3 if it's been very humid or raining.

So.  Now you're up to speed on all the particulars of painting a room.  Remember, it's only paint.  If you mess it up the first time (or the second) simply sand down any obvious imperfections and paint it again.

Window Treatments for every budget

Whether you rent or own, if your space has windows, they will need window treatments.  It's always easiest to pick up a phone and call a designer to take care of this for you.  However, it's certainly not the cheapest solution.

Maybe I can give you a few ideas that won't break the bank and will look great!

Window treatments act as a necklace to your neck.  They bring softness and interest to an otherwise unadorned area.  They can add a punch of color, texture or graphic art to the windows.  This is especially important if you're a renter and are forbidden to paint your walls.  Windows, walls and doors can add sternness to a room because of their rigid lines.  Framing them with fabric not only adds color but also softens the feel of the room.  Adding fabric to these areas can also aide in insulating your space.  In the olden days, many homeowners added heavy drapery to all of their interior doorways just for this reason.  Some cities at the turn of the last century based a homeowner's property taxes on the number of doors in their house.  For this reason, many homeowners opted to forego the traditional door to their closets and rather substituted curtains.

When it comes to treating your windows, fabric is always the best choice.  But what kind of fabric?  That depends on which way your window faces, how well your windows are insulated and the view on the other side.  Windows that bring in a lot of sunlight and/or heat (such as southern facing windows) will need curtains or drapery constructed of durable material which can withstand the constant heat and light.  Tapestry, corduroy, chenille, velvet and some rayon fabrics are best for bright windows.  A linen or thin cotton fabric is a perfect choice if all you need is texture, color or a softening element at your window and where direct sunlight or the need for insulation is not an issue.

If you are the type of person who likes to change up their decor every year or so, then you can skimp on lining the curtains but if you are in this for the long haul, lining your drapery will not only provide the protection needed from the sun but also add weight to your curtains which will make them hang well.

Searching for your fabric is a very individual process.  Some people have to see the fabric in person.  Touch it.  Others don't mind basing their decision off a picture on a website.  I have done both and have had happy results from both.

Sewing is a huge reason that most people opt to purchase already made draperies or have a professional do them.  Good news!  You don't have to sew to make window treatments.  You can go to any craft store or even big box retailers like Wal-Mart and get a roll of witch tape.

This is the easiest way to "sew" ever!  All you need is a pair of scissors, fabric, an iron and the witch tape.  You fold your fabric to form a seam or hemline, place the tape between the main body of the fabric and the folded part, lightly hold a hot iron on each section until the tape melts and you are done!  Warning: Never run the hot iron over the fabric containing the witch tape as if you were ironing a shirt.  Let the iron sit on a spot holding the witch tape for about 5 seconds.  Lift the iron and then place it on the next section containing the tape, etc. until you have successfully melted the tape.  Also, be careful that none of the tape is exposed directly to the iron.  Otherwise the tape will melt to the iron and cause a mess that is not easy to clean.

With this approach you will get perfect seams every time.  It will even hold up well to the washing machine.  However, repeatedly putting this in the dryer will eventually break it down and cause it to turn loose.  If the tape does begin to turn loose, simply cut a small amount of unused witches tape, put it in the area that has come loose and hold a hot iron on it.  Problem solved.  Another upside to using this is the fact that you won't have visible thread lines on the finished product.

Below is an example of easy to make curtains.

To make the above curtains, make a hem on all four sides of the fabric that you have cut for your curtains. Using the witch tape, iron the hems until the tape has melted.  It only takes a few seconds for the tape to melt.  Then simply clip the curtain holders to the top and thread the clips onto the rod.  Done.  The entire process takes less than 30 minutes from start to finish.  No sewing required.  Note:  If you are going to use clips, be careful not to choose heavy fabric for your curtains or eventually the fabric can slip out of the clips.

I hope you have gotten a few ideas today!  Don't be afraid to make your own curtains.  It's not hard and not expensive.

How to find your dream home

This article will (hopefully) assist you in finding that perfect property and avoiding the not so perfect property.

Buying a house is the single most expensive and time consuming purchase you will ever make in your lifetime. Also, next to deciding who to marry and having children, it's the largest single commitment of your lifetime.  Sure if the marriage doesn't work out you can get a divorce.  Children will eventually grow up and move out.  In the perfect market if you decide a year or so down the road that you aren't exactly in love with the house you purchased, you can always sell it.  However, these days the perfect market really doesn't exist so in today's world, it's far easier to get rid of a bad marriage than a bad house purchase - and probably far cheaper.

House hunting is a lot like dating.  You go on that first date with someone and they just seem so perfect in every way.  Then you go on the second date, maybe they're still pretty perfect.  But by the third date, cracks are beginning to show through the veneer of perfection and by the fourth date, you can't wait for dinner to be over so you can just go home, lock the door and block his (or her) number from your phone.

Looking at properties should be given the same time and multiple looks as deciding who you're going to date long term.  After all, if you commit to dating a person and 6 months down the road you don't want to anymore, you can always break up.  But once you sign on the dotted lines for a house - you're committed to that property for usually the next 30 years.

Stage One: Narrowing down the list of properties.

I always recommend that anyone looking to purchase a property begin with some intensive online research before contacting an agent.  You need to be informed as to what's available in your price range and in your preferred location(s).  You need to be aware of what people are listing properties for with the amenities you require.

Now let's imagine you've been looking online at the usual websites (www.realtor.com or maybe www.trulia.com ) and you've found 2 or 3 houses within your price range that you are really excited about. You've looked at all the pictures posted on these properties.  You've gone to Google street view and "wandered" about the street where the properties are located to get an idea of the neighborhood.  Things like how many vacant houses are on that block, are the neighboring lawns well maintained, are there commercial buildings within a few blocks of the property.  If you have children, you've researched the school districts in that neighborhood. Everything seems to check out. What to do now?

Now you go into what I call investigator mode.  You take your top 2 or 3 properties and you stake them out. You drive by them early in the mornings (weekend and work day - this will let you know how busy the street is and also how your commute to work or taking the kids to school will change) and then you drive by them late at night making sure to do it late enough that normally you would be in bed sleeping.  By all means do this both during a work night and on both a Friday and a Saturday night (some folks don't party on Friday nights but always party on Saturday and vice versa).  I strongly recommend doing all of the above no fewer than 3 times per week (every Friday and Saturday night and then an alternating work week night) for a minimum of 2 weeks.  The reason for this?  Simple.  Some noisy neighbors are a little noisy all the time and some neighbors are extremely noisy only half of the time.  By doing the above stakeouts you will know if your potential house is next door to someone who will make you crazy.  By doing your stakeout on both weekends and during the normal work week, you will be able to tell if the neighbor next door works weekends - but not during the week - or if they work at all.  Neighbors who aren't elderly and don't work at all usually make for bad neighbors.  They don't have to worry about staying up late at night - any night.

In this phase make a point to park as close to the proposed property as possible, turn your engine off, roll down your window and listen.  Do you hear bass coming from a stereo?  Do you hear dogs barking incessantly? Do you hear folks sitting on the porch talking/laughing when you'd normally be trying to sleep?  Do you see a lot of foot traffic when maybe there shouldn't be?  If so, scratch this house off your list and move on - I don't care how perfect it looks and how well it's priced - move on.   There is always - always - a reason that a property that looks perfect is priced lower than it probably should be.  Nothing brings the price of a perfect house down like an imperfect neighborhood or neighbor.   Further down I have posted pictures of a perfect house in an imperfect neighborhood.

Tip:  Make sure to have printouts from whatever website you found the house on with you just in case a vigilant neighbor notices you and calls the police - which is a good thing - vigilant neighbors are a neighborhood's best friend.  If the police approach you, show them the printout and simply tell them what you're doing.  As long as you aren't trespassing or parking illegally, the police will simply tell you to move on.  BUT while he/she's there, take advantage of the situation and ask him/her what he/she knows about the neighborhood.  The police know more about a particular block than a real estate agent will ever know.

Which brings me to my next suggestion.  Visit the local precinct where the property is located.  In many large cities, the police keep a database of their calls and can look the address up and tell you if that block is a trouble block or not.  In smaller towns, they won't have such a database but they will be able to tell you from their professional experience whether or not they get a lot of calls from that block.  Either way, it's good information to know.

Now a few years ago, I'd say time is of the essence and if you find a house you love - jump on it before someone else snatches it up from under you!  However, these days houses sit on the market longer than they used to so you have the luxury of taking your time.  Plus, if the house is still on the market when you've completed your stakeouts, maybe the owners will be willing to negotiate a bit on the price?

Below are some shots of a beautiful house on a stunning lot.  This house is gorgeous with fully updated kitchen and baths, a fabulous outside entertaining area complete with a pool.  Meticulously maintained property.  The price seems fantastic!  On paper - a perfect house.  However, it sits on a narrow, curving and extremely busy street.  The surrounding houses are marginal. Some of the surrounding houses are actually government subsidized rentals.  The school district is poor at best.  As nice as this house and lot is - unfortunately it's overpriced for the location and will either sit on the market for a very long time or sell at a greatly reduced price.

Stage Two - Picking the Right House

So you've done your investigation and there are 3 houses within your price range that you equally like.  Now what?

Now you call a realtor.  I never ever recommend using the same realtor as the sellers.  Absolutely never.  It's crazy to think that a person can represent two parties in the same transaction and do it equally.  Remember, the agent that has the listing signed on to represent the sellers before you ever came along.  That in itself tells me where their loyalty lies.

Some houses have excellent floor plans.  Spacious rooms.  Tons of storage.  Kitchen and baths that won't require you to gut them.  Then you step into the yard.  Magic gone.

Other houses have beautiful yards.  Well maintained.  Wonderful flower beds.  Healthy trees and shrubs. Thick healthy grass.

You want both if at all possible.  However, unless you have the budget for remodels - go with the perfect house and worry about having a perfect yard down the road.  It's far easier and cheaper to redo your landscaping than it is to remodel your house.

Below are some shots of a property for sale in a decent neighborhood.  It boasts an acre of land and beautiful outdoor spaces.  I can see falling in love with this property and the price - from the outside.  Once you enter the house you quickly discover that every inch of it needs to be updated.  From the outdated kitchen to the outdated bathrooms to the enormous amount of dark paneling....every surface would have to be "touched".

Stage Three - You've found "the one" - what now?

It's easy for a pretty house to look amazing in good weather and during the daytime.  When  you find that house that is perfect in every other way, view it multiple times.  You want to view it during the day in nice weather so you can move about with ease inside and out.  You want to see how much natural light it gets, you want to see if the fence is in good condition all the way around, if the grass is healthy - all things that you can't see at night.  But you also want to view it at night when the neighbors are all home so  you can see what kind of noise levels are inside the house.  You will want to know how dark the interior is at night even with the lights on. At any time that you view a house, you always want to flip all the switches to see if all the fixtures work properly, all the ceiling fans work, the disposal works, the doorbell works, the sprayer on the kitchen sinks works, the toilet flushes properly.  Run water in the tub and/or shower to make sure it drains property.  Look for any mold in the grout or on the ceilings in the bathroom or under the sink in both the bath and kitchen.

If at all possible, you will want to view this house when it's raining, the morning after a big rain or after a snow when the snow is melting.  This is the easiest way to find active leaks.  Trust me when I tell you that even an active leak can go undetected by your inspector if it hasn't rained in a while since they use a gadget that detects moisture to determine if the leak is an old one or an active one.  If it hasn't rained in a while - the meter won't pick up any moisture and the inspector will determine the leak to be an old inactive one.  This has actually happened to me - it's not a cheap discovery and I was not amused.  Also, in this type of weather, pull the curtains back and look at the windows.  Are they fogging?  Any cracked windows?  Do they open easily?  Foggy windows means windows that aren't insulated and windows that aren't insulated means high energy bills.

Take a lighter with you and when you are inside the house with the doors closed, light the lighter and move it slowly around the edges of the door.  If the fire flickers - you have a breeze. That means the cold air from outside is coming in during the winter and the hot air is coming in during the summer.  It also means outside noise will invade your home easier than it should.  Good insulation drastically improves your sound barriers.

Stage Four - The all important offer

For most people selling their home is an emotional matter.  Maybe because they've lived there for years, raised their family there and have good memories of it.  Or maybe because it belonged to their parents.  Maybe because unfortunate circumstances such as a divorce or pending bankruptcy or foreclosure has caused them to sell it which has put them on edge about the whole process because they don't want to sell their house but are being forced to do so.  Whatever the reason for listing their house for sale, very few sellers list their properties for what it's actually worth.  They invariably list it for what they "feel" it should be worth.  Or they list it at a price that will give them the amount of money they want or need to get out of it in mind rather than what it is actually worth in today's market.

What folks don't seem to understand is that sure you can list a house for whatever price floats your boat.  I could list my house for a million dollars.  But it will never ever sell for that amount so all I've accomplished (besides giving my realtor a great story to tell at her next dinner party) would be a sign in my front yard for years to come and then actually selling my house for a teeny tiny fraction of the list price - if at all.

The pictures of the first house above show homeowners who cared for their home, improved their home, put a lot of time and money into their home.  While they have priced it about 20% too high - I have a feeling they will stick to their guns unless they're close to foreclosure.  The reason for this opinion is the fact that when people put sweat, time and money into their homes - they are extremely resistant to anyone telling them that their house is not worth the listing price - or more.  They take it as a personal affront.  However, it's not.  It's a business deal and emotions should never play into any part of it.

People who are trying to overprice their homes need to view selling their house in the same vein of having a garage sale.  That expensive dress you bought ten years ago is just not going to sell at a garage sale for anywhere near the price you paid for it.  After all, you've worn it for ten years.  While this may seem to be an extreme example, you need to realize that while you have indeed put money, time and effort into your home, you have also enjoyed the benefits of any improvements you've made to your property over the years.  In essence, you've gotten your money back already.

My last house had a beautiful yard.  I spent upwards of $2,000 on bulbs & flowers for it over the 5 years that I lived there.  Within a week of my moving - they had removed the multiple hydrangea's, pulled up the azalea's, cut down the fig tree and grape vines and dug up all the flower beds.  Guess my definition of beautiful differed greatly from theirs?

I've made bad emotional choices in home buying myself.  I once bought a house that didn't function for me at all because it sat on a lot I loved - bad decision.  I then bought a house that was priced super cheap, functioned really well for me (and sat on a great lot) but was in a questionable neighborhood - bad decision.

Both bad decisions were made with emotions - not research and logic.

In my opinion the worst mistake that a buyer makes (next to a lack of proper research) is the ever popular lowball offer.  Why do folks do that?  It offends the owner, it annoys the realtor's and the buyer never gets the property for a ridiculous price.  They never do.  I don't care how many TV shows depict buyers offering half of the listing price - and getting the house - in real life, that simply doesn't happen.  So what you end up doing is spending the next week or more tossing numbers back and forth.  That's providing you didn't offend the sellers so badly that they end all negotiations with the first lowball offer.

After wasting all this time and effort trying to get the property at an extra (we'll say) $20,000 off list price, you still end up only getting it for maybe $2,000 under list price - if not the full list price.  So what have you accomplished?  Delay, hurt feelings and a mental promise from your realtor never to answer your call again - ever.

Another downside to lowball offers is the fact that even if they accept a number far below asking, you still have to go through the inspection process.  As a sidenote here - don't skimp on this step.  If you do you will surely live to regret it.  I don't care how many houses your Uncle Joey has built before he retired in 1983, he is still not qualified to properly inspect a house for you - you will NOT save money this way.  Eyeballing isn't considered inspecting either for that matter.  As I stated earlier, just because you don't see any evidence of an active leak inside the house (such as water stains) doesn't mean there's not one there.  You need a professional to check this stuff out properly.

But I digress.  Bear in mind, if the sellers drop their price significantly don't expect them to do any necessary repairs that your inspector finds in his inspection.  They've already given you all the money out of their pocket that you're ever going to get.  So maybe the best way to approach an offer is to offer them a reasonable price for their property.  Not a penny more than what the comparables in the neighborhood suggest.  But maybe leave some wiggle room so that if problems crop up in the inspection, you can ask the sellers to take care of those things.  Also, instead of lowballing the initial offer, ask for some (or all) of your closing costs to be paid by the seller.  But for Pete's sake don't ask for all of the above or the chances are great that you'll be right back to house hunting.

I hope this was helpful.  Happy house hunting!

Making a privacy fence feel less like a prison wall

Some people love privacy fences.  Some love chain link fences.  Some love block fences.  Some love brick and some love a combination of all of the above.

I am a chain link kinda girl.  I love being able to not feel closed in.  I like being able to see out of my yard.  I especially love the fact that when I have a chain link fence my dogs don't bark as much.

Dogs need to see what is making the noise they're hearing or the smell that they've picked up.  They want to see the dog, cat or squirrel that's rustling in the leaves on the other side of the fence.  When they can't.....they bark.  Or they dig.  While I abhor barking, digging is far worse.  I've chased my dogs through the neighborhood on more than once occasion and I've had mud tracked through my house and when I followed the mud trail it led me to a huge (dog shaped) puddle of mud in the center of my bed.....sigh.

Recently I purchased a new house.  Well, not really "new" since it was built in 1940 - but new to me.  The previous owners had ripped out the old chain link and installed a nice new wooden privacy fence.  While I appreciate the money they spent on the new fence.  And God knows I am all about new fencing that I didn't have to pay for, that sense of joy was soon squashed when I walked down from my deck and into my back yard.  I was surrounded by plain wooden planks.  I couldn't see out of my yard and neither could my dogs.  Let the barking and/or digging begin.....

SO, I've done some research and have found some really cool, innovative and not too pricey ways to both dress up my plain wooden fence AND allow some sight lines beyond my fence.  I decided to share those with you - just in case you're not fond of feeling enclosed, dogs barking and dogs digging either.  Enjoy!

How about adding shelving to your fence?  You can either use scrap wood that you have left over from other projects and build a simple box OR you can take some old dresser or kitchen drawers that you have left from a remodel.  Paint (or not) and attach to your fence!  That's it!

If you've read my blogs at all, you will know that I am crazy in love with pallets!  They are the single most useful throw away items ever!  How about turning one into a planter to put on your fence?

If you don't want to hang pieces of wood on your wooden fence then how about just buying some metal plant holders, spray painting a few clay (or plastic) pots and hanging those?

I live in an old neighborhood.  I can drive around my immediate vicinity on any given day and find at least 1 house that is either being renovated or torn down.  At the curb will be treasures galore!  How about all those pieces of tin and metal that I've been storing in my basement for just the right project?  I think this next picture shows me exactly what to do with them and I can't wait to get outside to do it!

How about that whole sight line issue I mentioned before?  The next few photo's will address that.  I especially like the first picture.  I think it looks stylish and gives me (and the dogs) that much needed space in which to peek beyond my yard without looking as if I just haven't repaired my fence.  Remove 2 or 3 boards from each section of fencing.  Then replace those boards with a strong lattice (you want the really strong lattice - otherwise your pets will be able to easily bust through it.  Frame it out and paint (if you want) and presto!  A really attractive option.  Also, if your fence is beginning to wobble - this will actually lighten the load your post will have to bear.  Same thing if you do this on your wooden gates.  If your gates are beginning to sag, removing some of the weight will help alleviate that problem.  Eventually you will have to address both the sagging and the wobbling - but this will indeed buy you some time.

While I do want some "peek" holes in my fencing, I don't want them everywhere.  Some privacy is desired.  This next shot takes a plain old privacy fence and really adds some punch to it.  All you need are bamboo poles, framing and a little paint.  Bamboo is not a heavy wood so if your fence is sturdy, this is a very good option. I really like this look.

Maybe you don't want to get super "fancy" with your fencing.  You just want the dog to be able to look out.  Okay.  Here are some suggestions.

The only problem with this idea is the fact that some kid can get his/her hand inside the fence.  Also, if your dog can get his head out - another dog can bite it off.  But it's still an option.  If I were going to do this, I would put some chicken wire over the hole before I framed it out.  But that's just me.

What about this one?!  Get out there and just saw those boards!!!  Job done!  However, once again, hands can get in and heads can get out.  Once again, chicken wire would solve that issue.

This next picture is my favorite of the doggy windows.  It reminds me of those things at the zoo for the groundhogs.  I'm not sure how attractive they'd look in person but they are cute!  I'm also not sure how expensive they are or how long they'd last.

Now you have some ideas to liven up and open up that boring old privacy fence!!  Have fun!!

Ramp up your exterior entryway a notch - or three!

Think of your exterior entry as the front of your head.  More people see it than the inside entry of your home (or the back of your head).  People will form their initial opinion of you by your face and they will form their initial impression of your home by its exterior entry area.

Whether you have a grand old porch or just a set of steps, all exterior entries can look welcoming and appealing.  Below are a few ideas to help you showcase your home and make just the right first impression.

Paint a  rug.  Really nice door mats can be a little pricey and chances are at least one of your neighbors has one just like it.  My recommendation would be to create your own.  Using a plain unadorned sisal, bamboo or jute rug won't break the bank and you can spray paint it to add your individual style to it.  

Look around your front entryway.  What colors do you love in the garden by your door?  Maybe you have pink roses or a vivid violet?  Use those colors when you design your rug.  Or maybe you have a few cans of spray paint in the shed left over from a previous project.  Use those.  You are only limited by your own imagination.  The rug in the picture below is simple as can be.  Stripes spray painted on it.  Nothing else.  

This probably took all of 30 minutes to tape off, spray paint and then another 30 minutes for it to dry.  Don't worry if you don't have some super exterior rated paint.  Any spray paint will work.  When (or if) it begins to fade, tape and spray it again!

Now let's look at your stairs or steps leading to your door.  The biggest transformation to your steps is a can of concrete paint.  Make sure if you paint your stoop/steps that you either add in some sand to the paint or you get the kind of concrete paint that is already textured.  The reason for this is simple.  Painted surfaces tend to be slick when the humidity level is high, it rains or it snows.  Homeowners claim and/or visit to the ER waiting to happen if you don't texture your concrete paint.

But what to do if your steps/stoop is brick or you don't want to paint it?  Too many people forget all about the riser component of a step.  Below is a picture of someone who trained English Ivy to cover the risers.  I think it's stunning!  It will take a little while to train the Ivy and a few minutes out of your week to keep it under control, but the results are well worth the effort.

The next picture is one of risers that have been tiled.  

If you like a more simple approach, simply paint the risers a contrasting color from the steps.  The one pictured below was done with exterior paint and stencils.  If you don't want to go this ornate, just paint and leave off the stencil step.

My last example of ramping up your steps is to add lighting to the risers.  You can find solar lights made specifically for risers at any big box hardware store.  No wiring to mess with.  Simply slap in the battery, affix them securely to your riser and wait til the sun goes down.  The picture below is this idea on steroids but it looks pretty impactful.

Always remember a  little whimsy makes the heart warm!  

But that's just me.

THAT'S NOT YELLOW!!!

Today is a short post.  Yeah, I know.  None of my posts are EVER short.  Well, mark this date on your calendar because it will be of historical significance as being the day I wrote a short piece for my blog!  Hahahaha  Now onto more important things.

Have you ever shopped from a catalog or online and found the most perfect (insert name of item here)?? For the sake of argument, let's say a comforter set like the one pictured below.

Nice shade of yellow and gorgeous brown accents.  Love it right?  So you order it.  Not wanting to waste time, you begin the room transformation before the comforter gets to you.

You've painted your walls a wonderful shade of brown that according to the picture above, will match the set perfectly.  While you wait for your comforter to arrive, you've picked up a few accessory items to really make that yellow pop.  Maybe even a brown shag area rug and some fun yellow throw pillows!!  You are ALL ready!  All you have to do is wait until the comforter set arrives and then throw it on the bed for a finished, polished and extraordinarily marvellous bedroom!

Well, not so fast.......because when you finally get the comforter set you notice the "yellow" is actually a gold and the "brown" is actually more of a burgundy mixed with brown.  Nothing about this comforter set matches anything that you either bought or painted in your room.  As a matter of fact, it kinda clashes....sigh....

The fun part begins when you have to figure out exactly how on earth the people working at the factory ever got this huge comforter, bed skirt and shams crammed into this obviously too small plastic envelope.

Then you ship it back and begin the search for the perfect yellow and brown comforter set - all over again.

My point to all of this?  Pictures whether they be in print or on the internet, almost never reflect the actual colors.  Paint chips almost never reflect the actual colors.  Paint chips come pretty darn close and sometimes pictures - but never exactly.  That's why it's always better to shop in person - but if you can't - get a sample of the fabric if possible, before you order the comforter set or curtains or throw.  It's always better to get a sample jar of the paint before you splurge for enough to paint the entire room.

There are many things that will alter the color.  The way the light reflects onto it.  The way the item reflects the light.  The amount of light in the room.  The items sitting next to it will alter the shade.  That's why I always tell folks to never ever have an all white bathroom because no matter how hard you try, there will always be varying shades of white in that room.  The toilet will never ever be exactly the shade of white that the tub is and the tub will never ever be exactly the same shade of white that the tiles are and when you mix those varying shades of white together what you get is dull, dingy and sometimes even a dirty look.

My advice is to always (in the case of paint) get a sample jar.  Go home and put some paint on all 4 sides of the room.  Use every last drop in the sample jar.  Then live with it for a few days taking note as to how it looks at different times of the day/night and with different lighting.

Do the same with fabric if possible.  Tack a sample of the fabric up in the room as close to the area in which it will be used as possible and then see what it looks like.

What to do in order to prevent all this chaos from happening?  Buy your comforter set first.  Before you even think about the paint for the walls or the accessories or the curtains.  Then take one of the shams with you when you go to pick out your paint color and accessories.  Then you will know that once you are finished, your room will be perfection.

But that's just me.

New/High End doesn't necessarily mean better or prettier

Ever decided to redo your kitchen?  Get quotes and they are outrageous? Salesman pushes you to purchase the latest fad such as granite, wood laminate floors, sea glass tiles?

I think everyone has at some point run into the above scenarios.  Here's the thing.....pricey updates aren't necessarily the best use of your time or money.

Let's assume that you live in a 1940's bungalow.  Not a Craftsman or true Tudor style bungalow - just a plain old nondescript squared bungalow.  Room sizes are good (as is the case with most bungalows). Layout works for you.  But it's kinda plain.  No real architectural details that draw your eye to them and then make you sigh with pleasure.  Nothing that really sets your house apart from all the others on your block. What to do?

Scenario number one would have you hire a contractor to knock down walls between the living room, dining room and kitchen.  Then he puts in all new windows and doors.  Next he guts your kitchen and puts in all new cabinets, granite counter tops,  runs laminate floors throughout the entire space and finishes the project off with a nice neutral paint color that runs from living room all the way into the kitchen.  Done.

The finished product looks something like the picture below. (this is an actual picture of a renovated bungalow that is currently for sale).

Nice enough. Good selection of materials.  Lighting's good....but to me it looks like a condo or apartment.  It doesn't look like a 1940's bungalow - at all.  And I hate that.  If I wanted to live in a condo or apartment, I wouldn't have bought a bungalow, now would I?

I think people get confused when they decide to renovate their houses.  I think in their minds to renovate means to rip out anything and everything that is original to the house and fill it with brand new, latest fad products.  Then when it's all over with - they wonder why they feel as if they're living in an apartment.

Nothing annoys me more than to see the outside of an old house, love it, then walk inside to a "new" house.  It's a feeling that I would imagine I'd get from being teleported.  I was in front of an old house but once I entered the door - old house gone!  I'm not saying that if the house doesn't function for you that you can't alter it until it does.  I'm just saying that if you don't like the character of your old house then maybe you need to move rather than destroy it.

I read yesterday that the average homeowner stays in their house between 5 and 7 years.  Homeowners who stay longer than 10 years normally only remodel once during that time.  Remodeling is a big expense and is hard on the nerves.  My advise to all homeowners is take your time and make certain that the end results will accomplish the following 3 goals.  (1) it will increase the value of your property (2) it will enhance the esthetics of your property by staying as true as possible to the character of the house and (3) it is something that you will love for at least 10 years.

If you fall for the salesman's sales pitch and go with the current fads rather than staying true to the character of the house you own, you might be able to sell your house quickly if you put it on the market as soon as the remodel job is done.  However, if you wait a year or more - that fad will have been replaced with another and when folks look at your house they will immediately think it's outdated and will envision thousands of dollars coming out of their pocket for a remodel.  Also, remember that most folks who even agree to view an old house when they're looking to buy are doing so because they love the character and uniqueness of the old houses.  If they wanted a new house feel, they'd probably be looking elsewhere.

Another way that the big box stores dip into your pockets is by selling you custom cabinetry.  Custom is always good but salvaged is even better when you're dealing with an older house.  Why?  Because of the dollar difference, the quality of craftsmanship and the uniqueness of the designs.

You can literally spend tens of thousands of dollars on new custom cabinetry for your kitchen and several thousands more on the counter tops.  The end result will be beautiful no doubt.  But it will scream NEW and it will immediately date the rest of your house.  When people walk in your front door, they will see character and charm of an old house and then they will walk into your kitchen and see new and shiny.  It will be as if they have walked into a different house.  It won't have the flow and consistency that it should have.  If you use salvaged cabinets and a butcher block counter top or even a marble, concrete or Quartz counter top, it will still give the impression of vast improvement, higher functionality but at the same time it will feel as if it belongs in the house.  It won't be in your face new. More subtle and charming.

Now the downside to salvaged cabinetry is as follows.  (1) it takes time and patience to look around until you find exactly what you want - that will fit into your kitchen. It may also take some research in order to find salvage stores.  I'd recommend checking on craigslist and maybe even calling some contractors and asking them where you might find some.  The local newspaper will sometimes also have ads from folks who are remodeling their kitchen and want to sell (and sometimes give away) their old cabinets.  Remember, just because someone else is throwing their cabinets out - it doesn't mean the cabinets aren't perfect for YOUR house.  It probably means the owners got suckered into buying new because they fell for the sales pitch at the big box store. (2) it takes a little time and patience to look around until you find a contractor who is experienced in installing salvaged cabinets as there will undoubtedly be some modifications needed in order to make these cabinets fit into your kitchen.  If the contractor you find is really experienced in doing this type of install, he (or she) may actually know of a source for you to get your cabinetry. (3) You can just about bet that there will be some refinishing necessary in order to get the finished look and uniformity that you want in your kitchen.

The upside?  The price and the finished product.  Once you've finished modifying the cabinets to fit into your space, you've added extra moldings and you've refinished them, they will become truly custom.  No one in the whole world will have cabinets just like yours.  Also, you can save even more money if you're willing to roll up your sleeves and refinish the cabinets yourself.

Refinishing cabinets is not a hard job at all.  It takes some patience, elbow grease and the realization that it's not a one step process. However, there are new products on the market now that will allow you to refinish without all the sanding and stripping needed before.  There are better paint products on the market now that will self level and won't show brush strokes like in the "old days".  For a normal sized bungalow kitchen I would think 2 weekends would be all the time you'd need to completely refinish all the cabinetry needed for your space.  If you doubt the amount of money you'd save doing this, simply go to the big box store and price cabinets, then go to a salvage store and price their cabinetry.  It's usually a huge price difference.

The finished product will be something that blends into your old house yet functions in a vastly more modern way.  It will also be timeless because you didn't fall prey to the newest fads.  In 20 years, your kitchen will still be appealing and functional.

Below are a few examples of what salvaged cabinetry can become with just a bit of elbow grease.

Hutch before:

Hutch after:

Southwall view of kitchen with cabinets partially completed.  I include this picture because I want you to see how these really don't "match".  However, once they are all painted, the hardware is all the same and a little molding is added to tie them all together, you'll never know that these aren't high end custom cabinets.  You just can't get more custom than this.

So what does a well done salvaged bungalow kitchen look like?  Below are some shots of remodels that utilized salvaged cabinets.  They were all updated with a fresh finish, great hardware, molding and accent pieces (such as the chunky legs added in the cottage remodel).  The end results are very functional, stays true to the period of the bungalow and looks uniquely amazing.  There aren't two of these kitchens anywhere in the world.  If you replicate this effect, when you put your house on the market it will stand out from all the others in the similar price point and area because you can pretty safely bet that the other folks will have fallen for the big box sales pitch and their kitchens will be filled with the latest trends.

Look at this cottage remodel.  Love it!  Lots of storage, soft color palette.  While they added modern conveniences such as pot lights, stone counter tops and floors, they stayed in line with the style and age of their house by using the farm house sink, color palette and added chunky furniture legs to the cabinets effectively mimicking the look and feel of furniture.  Remember, back in the day, kitchens didn't come with tons of cabinets.  Usually they came with a shelf below the sink and maybe 2 upper cabinets.  Folks brought in actual furniture pieces to add storage and prep space to their kitchens.  What my grandma used to call "pie cabinets", "dry goods cabinets" and oftentimes even dressers served as prep space and storage for the kitchen.

I'm not big on all white rooms be it the kitchen, bath or any other room.  Too institutional for my tastes. However, this kitchen is pretty awesome.  Farmhouse sink, marble tops, glassed cabinets, subway tiles that go all the way up the wall and meet the ceiling.  The lighting choices are great too.  Not a lot to complain about with this kitchen.

Below is a Craftsman Kitchen using salvaged cabinets.  Lots of wood in this room. Personally I would have preferred that they not use wood on the floors as it really is a bit of wood overkill to me.  Had they gone with a cork or stone floor, this kitchen would be incredible.  It would have toned down the wood and made the cabinetry pop (as it should).  As it is, it's highly functional, extremely attractive and again, stays true to the house.

Like I said earlier, it's not hard to refinish cabinetry.  It doesn't take a lot of skill - just a lot of elbow grease and patience.  A few tips on this process in case you think you want to try it.

1.  Always remove the doors and drawers.  Take them outside under a carport or porch if at all possible.  The reasoning for this is too much sunlight will speed up the drying process which will make it extremely difficult to work with the paint or varnish.  By speeding up the drying process it will also prevent you from going back over your work and smoothing out any visible brush strokes.  This means you'll have to wait until the paint or varnish has completely dried.  Then  you'll have to perform the extra step of sanding the brush strokes out and redoing the piece.  Another reason for taking them outside is that there will be lots of dust.  If you sand your cabinets inside with either the heating or air system on - the dust can and will get sucked into your unit and can (I've had it happen) clog it up to the point that it will no longer work.  AC repairman bill in the making.  Sanding them inside will also make for a nightmare of a clean up because that dust will blow everywhere. The final reason for taking them down is the simple fact that it is much easier on the body and finished product if you refinish the doors/drawers when they are flat.  The paint or varnish won't drip or run and you won't have to stand on a ladder for the entire day.  Ugh.

2. LABEL THE DOORS AND DRAWERS!  If you don't, when it comes time to put them back up - good luck remembering what door/drawer goes where.  Sometimes it appears they are pretty much all the same size - but they're not.  I like to draw a diagram of my cabinetry and beginning at the left, I number each door and drawer with a pencil on the lower right hand side of the piece.  Then I replace the door or drawer before I do the inside.  Otherwise you're going to paint right over your number.

3. Always refinish the inside as well as the exterior.  Nothing spells out a DIY job like opening a beautifully refinished cabinet door or drawer to see an old and unfinished interior.  My favorite thing to do is to paint the interior an unexpected color that is different than the exterior color of the cabinetry.   Another idea is to wallpaper the interior completely.  Using a geometric pattern on the interiors of the cabinets and drawers adds a fun surprise for those who open them up.

4. Don't forget your hinges.  Too many people paint over the hinges which is another scream for DIY.  While you're removing the doors, simply remove the hinges too.  Drop them into a bucket of stripper and let them soak while you redo the doors and drawers.  Once the years of grease, grime, paint and varnish has fallen away, simply take them out (being careful to wear good quality rubber gloves), rinse them off thoroughly and then using a steel wool pad, give them a really good going over to get any remaining gunk off them.  Of course, if they aren't going to match or even blend in well with your choice for new pulls for your cabinets - just drop them into an old coffee can and put them on a shelf for the future.  Then just replace them with new ones that will match or blend in with your new pulls.

5. While you have the doors off the cabinet boxes, take your upper doors (or just a couple of them) to a glass shop and have the wood inside the frame replaced with glass for the upper cabinets.  Nothing opens up a kitchen like glass.  If you're worried about not having nice enough dishes to show off, then go with a frosted glass or buy an etching kit and stencil at your local crafts store and make your own design.  You'd be surprised how cheaply you can replace the wooden inserts with glass.  If you ask nicely and the guy at the glass shop isn't really busy, they'll even put the glass into your doors for you.

6.  Do not (I repeat) do not scrimp on your prep work.  I hate prep work as much if not more than any other human on this planet.  However, I have cut some corners and shaved off a few steps in the past and had to start all over because the finished product look like hell.  So tape off anything you don't want to get paint on.  Use a drop cloth liberally to prevent a clean up nightmare in your future.  Tape newspaper over your windows and over your backsplash and/or counter tops if they've already been installed.  It takes about 10 minutes to rip all this out and toss it in the trash but it can literally take a day or longer to clean up spills or splashes if you don't do this.  While you're covering areas you don't want painted - don't forget your floor!  I wish I had a dollar for everytime I neglected to cover the floor and then inadvertently got paint on the bottom of my shoe and then proceeded to track it all over the floor.

7. My last tip on this subject?  Don't scrimp on quality materials! As the old saying goes "you get what you pay for".  I redid a house a few years back when I was just getting started in my design business and was green behind the ears.  Also, I was still struggling in my business and had no budget to hire professional painters.  It was a rental house and the landlord (my client) had evicted the tenants.  My job was to go in there and get that house ready to rent for a premium rental price.  Other than the pure filth, the tenants had also chosen to paint the large entry room a Pepto Bismal pink and the den a deep hunter green.  So off to the big box store I go.  I opted to get the cheapest primer I could find.  It took 4 gallons of the cheap stuff just to get the entryway to the point that no pink was showing through.  Sigh.  So when I moved onto the much large hunter green den, I chose to use a more premium primer.  The den was about 10 times the size of the entryway.  It only took 3 gallons of the "good stuff" and I was ready for the actual paint.

Another reason to use the "good stuff".  When you are painting or staining one thing of great importance is the durability not only of the actual paint job but of the color or shade of varnish.  The cheap stuff will look really nice when you finish it but the color/shade fades rather quickly and when bumped or rubbed - it will come off or cause those awful black streaks.  The good stuff tends to maintain its color/shade for a long time and is far more durable and resistant to bumps, scratches, stains and cleaning.  So while you could conceivably paint an entire room with the cheap stuff for under $30, you would probably have to do it again inside of a year.  With the good stuff, you could paint an entire room for around $60 but it's going to last you 3 years or longer.

I think you can tell from this post that I am all about saving some cash while creating a unique and stylish kitchen that will still be unique and stylish for years and years to come.  I think you have also noticed from this post that I like to maintain as much of the original charm and character of old houses as humanly possible.  I hope you've been given some good points, ideas and tips so you too can create the kitchen of your dreams!!